Before starting Jecca Blac, our Founder, Jessica, gave safe space makeup lessons to transgender women and those first experimenting with their gender expression. During her one-to-one makeup lessons, she realised contouring was something many of her clients sought user friendly makeup solutions for - however, much of the readily available advice online gave an overly simplified method which didn't consider the way every face is truly unique.
Contouring is a makeup technique used to define and shape the features of the face (and sometimes the body, too!) When given the ability to play with shadows and light, you can modify the appearance of your natural bone structure - thus transforming your features in any way you wish to do so.
While contouring can be achieved on any face, there's no 'one size fits all' method - and it is important to discover which methods will suit your unique features depending on your desired result.
Our Sculpt & Soften Palette comes with 2 shades, and has a cream consistency that is super easy to blend and leaves a natural, skin like finish. Shade 'Soften' is used for highlighting, and shade 'Sculpt' is used for contouring.
A Contour Palette is best when applied as one of the final steps of your base makeup. Start off by completing your skincare and then add a Primer of your choice in order to ensure a smoother application & better staying power for your base makeup. Our Blur & Matte Primer is perfect for this as it blurs the skin's texture (including pores, fine lines and beard shadow!)
After you've primed, you may wish to conceal any blemishes or add a foundation of your choice - our Correct & Conceal Palette was created with makeup wearers in mind who seek beard shadow coverage and can also be applied as an all over base in place of a foundation. Once you've completed your concealer and/or foundation, it's time to contour!
Soften Your Face
While there is no one way for a male, female or non binary face to look, many transfeminine makeup wearers seek a contour that softens and rounds their features. If your goal is to contour in a way that enhances your cheekbones and creates a gentler jawline, here are the steps to follow:
1. Apply the lighter shade first ('Soften'). Using a small, soft brush, apply the product above the cheekbone, down the sides and on the bridge of the nose, on the middle of the forehead and finally bring it from the ear down to above the jawline, creating a flick at the end.
2. With a same sized brush, apply the darker shade ('Sculpt'). Create a line from the inner end of the eyebrows down to the side of the nose. Apply the product also around the chin, the temples and along your cheekbones.
3. With a soft foundation brush, blend the lighter shade first into your skin. Then, with a smaller soft brush blend the darker shade. Be careful not to blend the two colours together - think of it more as blending the lines so they are blurred into the skin. Doing this in natural daylight will help you achieve the most natural result and will help you accurately see where the contour is on your skin - the best kind of contour is one that you can't see.
4. Use a loose powder to fix the contouring.
Cut Lines And Create a Harsher Contrast
To cut lines and create a more masculine contouring, you can follow these steps:
1. Starting with the darker shade, use a small angled brush. Define the area around your forehead, on each side of your nose and under your jawline. Instead of following the natural line of your cheekbones, use the product to create a line starting from your ear to just below your mouth. Finally, use the brush to define your chin by bringing the product on each side.
2. Blend the product into the skin before the next step.
3. Now, use a fluffy brush to apply the lighter shade. You want to create a harsher line, making the shadows you’ve just created on your face more defined. Blend the product into your skin.
4. You can go back with some of the darker shade if you’re not happy with the result, making sure you don’t go over the lighter shade